milan fashion week 2015 s/s : Fendi

밀라노 20015 패션위크에서 가장 주목을 받았던 것은

뭐니뭐니해도

Fendi의 RUNWAY!

 

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Next January, Fendi’s new global headquarters will be located in the 1953 Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome, whose graceful, stately arches were inspired by the paintings of the Metaphysical artist Giorgio de Chirico. There’s always been an easy and seamless coexistence of past and present in Rome and, coincidentally, at Fendi too, where cocreators Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi have long fused time-honored artisanal techniques with hypermodern technology. Their soon-to-be HQ was a point of inspiration for spring, but in ways that were not immediately obvious. Backstage, said Venturini Fendi, it was less a case of looking at the building and more at what’s above. “The incredible Roman sky, there’s nothing more beautiful,” she said. “The way it goes from blue to the reds and oranges of the sunset. That’s what informs the collection; lightness, air, the natural world—but projected into real life.”

Of course, no challenge is ever too great for the Fendi ateliers, not even something as monumental as nature, and what resulted was an exceptional collection, full of wonderful things imbued with a youthful, joyful vitality. Cara Delevingne opened the show in a sculpted short blue satin dress in a stylized orchid print and high sandals, whose myriad straps were attached to the same crocodile-tail motif used on Fendi’s By The Way purse and had that gladiator vibe which is becoming omnipresent. From there on in came plenty more pieces that were complicated in concept but looked pretty darn effortless in practice. Suede—it’s everywhere this season—was worked into an elegant bias-cut draped dress which had a simple sporty ease, while leather was crafted into the likes of a tiny appliquéd dress swishing with fringe or an athletic tank slashed to mimic the bars of a birdcage. Oh, and that Fendi wit was much in evidence, too, in still more of those tiny, furry, birdy bags, as well as the likes of the classic Baguette with a clear plastic raincover over it, perfect for protecting it from a downpour. Even in Rome, it seems, the skies can’t always be the most perfect shade of blue.